Where to stay

Base in the center

El Fuerte is small enough that there is really one answer: stay in the historic center, within a few blocks of the plaza. Everything worth doing, plus the restaurants and the feel of the town, is right there, and you can walk it all in minutes. The edges of town have nothing you want to be near, especially the night before an early train.

Who each option suits

• Courtyard boutique hotels near the plaza — The town’s calling card. A handful of restored colonial buildings with arcaded courtyards and thick stone walls sit steps from the square. Best for travelers doing the El Chepe train who want a comfortable, atmospheric night before boarding, and for anyone happy to pay a bit more for character and quiet.

• Simple guesthouses and smaller hotels — Also in or near the center, at lower prices. Good for budget travelers and one-nighters who mainly need a clean bed, a shower and a short walk to the station and the plaza.

Practical notes

Book ahead in winter and early spring, the busy months for the train, when the good courtyard places fill. Confirm whether your hotel arranges the river birding tour and a station transfer, since many do and it saves hassle. If you have an early departure, pick something you can walk from with a bag rather than relying on a dawn taxi.