Things to do

Worth your time

Wander the ruins on foot. The best thing here is free: walking the cobbled lanes past roofless stone shells, the old mint (Casa de Moneda) and crumbling walls that climb the hillside. Give it a slow morning. This is the whole reason to come.

The church of San Francisco. The working parish church draws pilgrims from across Mexico who come to see the figure of San Francisco de Asis, believed to grant miracles. Step into the side room of retablos, small painted panels thanking the saint. It is the beating heart of the living town, not a museum piece.

Willys jeep ride to Pueblo Fantasma and El Quemada. Old military-surplus jeeps run up to the “ghost pueblo” ruins and cliff-edge viewpoints above town. The views over the desert are the payoff, and the ride itself is half the fun. Genuinely worth it.

Horseback ride into the hills. Guides with horses wait near the plaza and take you out to viewpoints and old mine sites. Good if you would rather not do the jeep. Agree the route and price first.

Ranked honestly

1. Walking the ruins and church, on foot, slowly.
2. Jeep or horse ride to the viewpoints.
3. Poking through the small shops and craft stalls.

Oversold or handle with care

• Peyote and “shamanic” desert trips. Heavily pushed to foreigners, and the reason to skip them is not just legality. The desert below is sacred Wixarika ground and the plant is central to their religion. Buying a tourist trip cheapens that and, practically, leaves people lost in the desert. Pass.
• Craft stalls. Fine to browse, but much of it is generic; do not plan a day around shopping.