Things to do

Worth your time, ranked honestly

1. Diving the southwest reefs — the whole reason to come

Palancar, Columbia, Santa Rosa and Punta Sur are the headline. Warm, clear water, dramatic coral walls and easy drift dives make this some of the best diving in the Caribbean, and the marine park keeps the reefs healthy. Book two-tank morning boat dives with an established local operator. If you do one thing on Cozumel, do this.

2. Snorkeling the shallow reefs

You don’t need a tank. Palancar Gardens and the shallow reefs off the southwest coast are reachable by boat and deliver bright coral and fish in a few meters of water. A good half-day for non-divers or families.

3. Driving the island loop

Rent a car or scooter and circle the ring road. The wild east coast has open-sea views and a string of laid-back beach bars — El Mirador, Coconuts, Rasta’s — where you stop for a beer and ceviche. Swimming is dangerous on this side, so it’s for scenery and food, not the water.

4. Punta Sur eco park

A protected reserve at the island’s south tip with a lighthouse, lagoon, crocodiles and a quiet beach. Worth it if you want a nature day off the reef; combine it with the island loop.

Overhyped

• The downtown cruise strip. The waterfront jewelry and tequila shops exist to process ship passengers. Nothing here you can’t skip.
• The big beach clubs. Fine but crowded and pricey on cruise days; the east-side bars are more relaxed.
• Chankanaab park. Convenient snorkeling and dolphin encounters, but busy and packaged. Real reefs beat it.

Time it so your beach and town days fall when no ships are docked — midweek is often busiest.