Where to stay

Where to base yourself

The city is small, but it is vertical. Where you sleep decides how much stair-climbing you do with your bags, so choose by how central and how quiet you want to be.

The main areas

• Jardin de la Union and the center. The heart of it, walking distance to the plazas, theater, bars and the funicular. Best for first-timers and short stays who want everything at the door. Trade-off: it is the loudest at night, with music from the plaza and bars running late.

• Around Plaza de la Paz and the basilica. Still fully central and walkable, a notch calmer than the Jardin itself. A good middle ground if you want to be in the action without sleeping over a bar.

• The callejones up the hillsides. Small guesthouses and rentals climbing the alleys, often with the best views over the city. Cheaper and quieter, and where a lot of the character is. The catch is obvious: stairs, and lots of them, with no car access to the door. Fine if you pack light and do not mind the climb.

• Near the university and Mercado Hidalgo. More local, more student-priced food around you, and easy access to buses. Suits budget travelers and anyone staying a while.

Honest advice

If it is your first visit and you want simple, book something a couple of minutes’ walk from Jardin de la Union and accept the noise. If you sleep lightly, go one street back or up toward Plaza de la Paz. During Cervantino in October, book far ahead and expect higher rates across every area.