Food

What to eat in Tlacotalpan

This is river-and-coast Veracruz cooking, and the town leans hard on what comes out of the Papaloapan and the nearby Gulf. Eat fish and seafood here and you cannot go wrong.

The dishes worth planning around

• River and Gulf fish, often grilled whole or served a la veracruzana, in a tomato, olive, and caper sauce that is the signature of the region.
• Prawns and shrimp, done al mojo de ajo (garlic) or in a spicy sauce, plentiful and fresh.
• Arroz a la tumbada, a soupy seafood rice that is one of the great Veracruz plates, halfway between paella and a stew.
• Local sweets and coffee. Veracruz is coffee country, so a good cup is easy to find, and small bakeries sell regional sweets.

Where to eat

For the honest version, look for the family-run comedores and loncherías a block or two off the main plaza, where locals eat lunch and the seafood is straightforward and fresh. Places along or near the riverfront give you a view with your fish. Avoid judging the town by the single most touristy corner; the better value is one street back.

Approximate prices

A hearty seafood lunch at a local spot typically runs a modest amount per person (approximate); a sit-down fish plate with a drink is very reasonable by Mexican standards. Save your appetite for one long midday meal, the way locals do, rather than grazing.